Chepstow Castle

Beautifully preserved Chepstow Castle is a history lesson in stone.

Superbly set high upon its river cliff above the Wye, Chepstow still guards one of the main river crossings from southern England into Wales. Few castles in Britain tell the story of medieval fortification, from beginning to end, as does this mighty stronghold. It was probably the very first stone castle in the entire country, and was to see successive developments right through to the Civil War of the 17th century. Throughout the Middle Ages, Chepstow was the centre of military and administrative power in the Marcher lordship of Strigoil.

Within a few months of the Battle of Hastings William fitz Osbern, lord of Breteuil in Normandy, was created earl of Hereford by William the Conqueror, and was given the task of subduing the southern Welsh borderlands. Before his death in 1071 he had built the rectangular keep, which still forms the core of the castle today. It is the earliest dateable secular stone building in Britain, but is very similar to other 11th-century hall-keeps in Normandy. Notice that the builders used several bands of red Roman tile in the construction, probably robbed from the ruins of Caerwent. The small round-headed windows in the ground floor are also original features.

If you think modern doors are long lasting, think again. Chepstow boasts the oldest castle doors in Europe. All wood and all of 800 years old. Until 1962 these doors hung in the main gateway, but are now in safe keeping in the on-site exhibition. Let’s just say it would be nigh on impossible to find a replacement.

The whole site is a lesson in longevity. From around 1067 through to 1690, the castle, almost chameleon-like, changed its appearance as fashions changed in military architecture. More a case of bright architects than bright colours however.

Century after century, the castle grew and grew along its narrow cliff top ridge. The oldest building is the Norman great tower but building work continued well into the 17th-century as medieval battlements were replaced by stronger musket-friendly parapets. Bows and arrows were so last century!